Tension Block Vs Hangboard. I have a fixed board and a portable hangboard. FYI, “No hang&r

I have a fixed board and a portable hangboard. FYI, “No hang” is typically used to refer to lifting weight off of the ground using a “no hang” device (e. Metolius Rock Rings 3D Check out our tension climbing block selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our fitness & exercise shops. In this episode of our Fundamentals Series we cover the big questions in hangboard training and give you two fundamental training sessions every climbing will need if serious about training. Featuring an assortment of edges, ranging from 35mm to the heinous 7mm, the Grindstone Pro is perhaps the best hangboard for the individual that wants to grow with their board without the worry of replacing it. Tension has upped the portable-hangboard ante with The Block, a 9oz piece of cherry wood with over nine different hold positions. I still prefer a fixed hangboard to a no-hang device for most purposes (it's a lot easier reducing weight with a pulley or pulling BW one-armed on a big edge-- 20mmish-- than lifting BW one-armed on even the 20mm Tension block in my experience). Apr 7, 2024 · They come with three edge depths of 19 mm, 12 mm, and 7 mm. Which hangboard is right for you? Saw pretty rapid progress because it was my focus. k. this isn't a commercial advertisement tho, it's some dude reviewing it. a Tension Block)? I’m thinking with regard to max finger strength - not repeaters or any endurance protocol. No Hang Tools' Rise in Popularity A few events nudged no lifting into the level of popularity it’s currently receiving. I also diy grip implements out of wood for lifting and I have been considering making some smaller edges to dangle from as well. Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. My guess is that your crimp weakness might be a combination of psychological and neurological. Kilter Board?) Hi all. Now I'm trying to decide between finger curls with a dumbbell, which seems to be uncommon but relatively established, and no hang crimp-ups, by which I mean no hanging with a Tension block (or other) starting in an open hand and moving the weight up into half crimp and pushing it towards the palm. Trango Hangboard vs Beasmaker2000 vs Transgression My current bouldering gym has all 3 options available. That is part of my regular training plan even in a full gym. The tension grindstone pro has pretty much all the features you could want in a hangboard I think. The Block might be the single most useful block of wood Tension's ever made. Tension grindstone, Beastmaker 1000, etc a 'pinch block' style device e. The Block might be the single most useful block of wood we’ve ever made. If you really want to train max hang style with it then attach it to something stationary. Mar 24, 2020 · Tension added the taper to keep the edge comfortable and not bite into your skin, allowing you to hangboard multiple days in a row or after a climbing session. May 23, 2024 · Hangboard Training: What is a Hangboard and How Do You Use it? Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. Oct 26, 2023 · Ever since its release in 2020, the Tension Grindstone Mk2 has ranked among my favorites, so when I heard the Denver-based company was releasing two new boards this year, the Honestone and the I weigh 165lbs and I can hang one arm off the small BM 2K edge, whatever size that is, for 4-5 seconds. Designed and tested by coaches, trainers, professional athletes, and lifelong climbers. Dave Macleod – How to Hangboard This paragraph was a pretty big wake-up call about training and what was possible. The portable one makes it out for work trips and other travel where I won't have a fixed one. 1:03 Workout3:11 T Hey dudeskis, My new apartment doesn’t have space for a hangboard, so I’m planning on getting a “the block” from tension climbing or a gripster… Aug 20, 2019 · Use the hangboard to get “generally” strong fingers and the system board/tension board/bouldering to get “specifically” strong. Let’s explore each of these unique training tools to see what they’re all about and learn how they could help you reach your climbing goals. Crimping doesn’t. Our flagship Tension Board is the ultimate confluence of training, practice, and performance. It might seem hard now but you can control the weight by either hanging or just pulling hard with both feet on the ground. Maybe I can’t hangboard 6 days a week, but I can hangboard 3-4 days a week consistently, and increase the load. May 10, 2022 · Our Method Our Selection of the Best Portable Hangboards for 2026 Comparison Table 1. The Tension Block is again good for this as you'd need to unload a ton of weight on a pulley system if you were to try this on a hangboard. I'm considering buying an at home board at some point in the next few months, and I'm curious how these 2 (or 3) boards stack up with each other. But recent changes means my hangboard is now outdoors and very condition dependent. May 7, 2024 · I've done these quite a lot with a tension block and really like them. The hangboard is measured and made of the highest quality materials. I train pinch block, hangboard with pinches, bumper plate pinches, and exclusively climbed pinch problems on spray wall. Use them individually or in pairs to pick weight up off the Tension Simple Board vs Grindstone Mk2 - which is more comfortable? Hey r/climbharder, I'm shopping for a hangboard for home. Jan 20, 2021 · Which is better: the hangboard or the system board? Well, they both have their pros and cons. In the pictures it’s usually a Tension Flashboard ($75-$85) or The Block ($40-$45) so I figured I’d throw in a few plugs for Will Anglin’s shop. g. Aug 12, 2020 · Discover a hangboard routine meant to properly warm you up and build your strength, while preparing you to climb later that same day. Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using different holds. Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block: Best Portable Hangboard for Crimp Strength Who is it for? 2. Ideal for structured finger strength You don't need anything except the Tindeq, your portable edge block of choice (I use the Tension Block), a couple carabiners, and a sling. Plus, new hangboard workouts & the best hangboard workouts for beginners. Feb 10, 2024 · The injury was enough to send the climber to the hospital. I didn’t expect that from such a small device. If your ability to hang on to a few more crimps is the difference between sending or not sending a route, for example, you could probably benefit from focused hangboard sessions. The Tension Board 2 sets do not include a wall or panels Check out our FAQ page for wall options and other frequently asked questions Please note that there is a 3% processing fee that is non-refundable Hardware sold separately The individual blocks of the tension simple board, combine with a French clete on each on that make them adjustable is by far the most comfortable board I’ve used. I use the Tension campus rungs (35mm, 25mm, 20mm), and the standard lattice hangboard for their data. When you look at it this way, it is pretty easy to narrow down your hangboarding grip types: Strength on slopers is not so much about pure forearm flexion as it is about body positioning and shoulder/core strength. So, I'm curious as to why this approach isn't recommended for grip training using a NoHang device (such as the Tension Block). Doing hangboard workouts for beginners? Stop. Tbh, I believe that no hang devices such as the Tension Block or Grippul are best for some sort of rehabbing or last resort training tool. This facilitates quite a nice variety of finger training while minimizing equipment needs while traveling. Hangboard 1 is the best of the bunch if you're looking at doing a proper hangboard program. lifting block, portable hangboard, no hang device, block pull) is an increasingly popular alternative to traditional hangboarding. Never used it, wasn't a fan of that style. Hanging from a dangling board is also harder and will take some time to get used to. The bm1k would also be fine for beginners if you ask me. Simply put, it’s a block of wood with an assortment of edges, pinches, pockets, and little crimps. Mar 15, 2021 · Are tension climb hangboards worth it? And are these the best hangboards for beginner climbers? We reviewed the most popular hangboards to answer which finge Tyler’s system is notable because it’s typically attached between a static, immovable anchor and a portable hangboard. That being said having a portable hang board vs no hangboard, having a portable hangboard and using it is far better. Aug 28, 2022 · Everything you need to know about hangboarding, beginner-advanced. The Grindstone is a precision-engineered edge training platform designed to meet the demands of climbers across the performance spectrum. If you fail the "Entry Gate" test, you risk a pulley snap. It’s a high-quality wooden board with all of the edge depths a dedicated climber needs for structured hangboard training, and it’s very skin- and tendon-friendly to boot. The Hangboarding Training Protocol My training protocol was simple. This would actually have a big benefit for tracking your numbers, because you get more evenly spaced data (three weeks of data every five months, is less useful than one week of data every five weeks). Does training one help with the other? I have looked up past questions regarding no hangs but haven't seen any posts strictly comparing numbers. Has anyone had experience with both to compare? i’ve been doing weighted repeaters for the past few days with my tension block. Sep 21, 2024 · The All-in-one Climbing Training Solution. I’ve got the tension block (bought it right as the lockdown started in my area since I don’t have a hangboard) and I love it! No idea how it stacks up against the competitors, but it’s a really great product. Progressed nicely from sessioning V6-V7s on tension board in June/July to, at the time of writing, being able to single session multiple V8s and sometimes V9 per training day. Hi, was looking into getting the Block by Tension Climbing to train finger strength without having to travel to my local climbing gym. I know that it always come down to personal preferences when choosing which hangboard to use. so it’s double the workout time from a normal hangboard session but i’m still working my fingers so i think it’s worth it to maintain strength and a bit of endurance. The Block might be the single most useful block of wood Tension has ever made. Curious as to how well 1 arm 20mm tension block weighted no hangs correlate to 20mm edge hangboarding. not sure why you would hate on Tension because someone decides to review their products. For me, that's one of the most significant drawbacks of Arm-Lifting training. The Grindstone Hangboard, along with all of Tension’s products, holds a focus on precision. Do you fully replace using the hangboard (for max hangs) ? Does it translate well to real rock climbing? I train to perform better in real rock. But some reasons people do it: Pinchblocks! Isolate your weaker hands fingers, or when you need to step it down on one hand due to injury. You want it to be the thinnest edge you can hang on for 13-15 seconds with an open grip. They're pretty expensive though so I made mine, if you own a router it's pretty easy to make one yourself. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. Jun 26, 2024 · A lifting edge is quickly becoming the essential training tool in every climber’s pack. As a result I was thinking of using a tension block to supplement my workout to help me continue strengthening my fingers. Over the past 2 years, the Lattice coaches have replaced fingerboard workouts with lifting edge workouts in over 30% of training plans 🤯In this video we Moved Permanently The document has moved here. How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide] Hooper's Beta 146K subscribers Subscribe I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. it’s one hand at a time. So instead of 3 weeks Tension board, 1 week deload, you could do 3 weeks Tension board, 1 week deload, 1 week hangboard, or something like that. Tension Climbing Grindstone Sep 30, 2025 · Buy for $30 on REI Tension Climbing The Block (aka Tension Blocks) When Tension Blocks came out in 2019, they were so novel I didn’t understand them—did you hang them from a tree branch and do pull-ups/deadhangs for a cliffside warm-up? Clip a draw to the keeper loop and stand on it, to pull against the crimps and fire up your digits? Sep 18, 2024 · The tension block is also super useful for finger strength testing and pairs well with the Tindeq Progressor or a lifting pin to determine your max strength on your desired edge, pocket, or pinch Tension Block 2/Lattice mini bar/Captain Fingerfood portable Hangboard. Lattice block, Tension block, etc a dumbbell for finger curls, wrist curls, etc anything that keeps your fingers moving, Alex Barrows talked about doing juggling for AeroCap Also, isolating the ring finger and doing open finger mono hangs/pulls were good for my finger. May 9, 2024 · Based on our research and testing, we think the Tension Climbing Grindstone is the best Hangboard available in 2026. Aug 24, 2023 · The Whetstone is perhaps the most thoughtfully considered beginner-focused fingerboard on the market—an upgrade from aging classics like the Beastmaker 1000 and the ever-present Metolius lineup. Nov 26, 2019 · The Simple Board is a modular hangboard system designed to take you back to the basics of training. Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. It doesn't leave any option for pull-ups at home though. So, two pulleys. I don't train for the sake of training. It offers a variety of edges, crimps, and slopers on a single block, and comes with an integrated attachment point—usually a built-in hole or metal eyelet. It even does the one finger/2 finger hangs well. May 15, 2019 · The Tension Climbing Block. You just need to be careful not to overdo it. Tension have incorporated all the necessities for climbers looking to push their limits. Jun 2, 2025 · A Tension Block is a small, handheld hangboard crafted from wood. Dec 2, 2020 · The Grindstone Pro is a more advanced version of the popular Tension Grindstone hangboard. Tension block, tension flashboard, tension grindstone m2k connected to detachable pullup bar. I did some searching and there were very few comparisons between these two about comfort (maybe saw 2 comments between reddit and mountainproject). I use the tension block for the 6mm, the mono, and the pinches. Usually 30-70lbs. Only the grindstone m2k has 25mm+ but a 20mm and 15mm is all you really need. The taper also lets you train two- and three-finger hangs without the need for a pocket—on other boards, with flatter or more incut edges, trying to train “pockets” this way often Nov 10, 2023 · A hangboard is one of the best off-wall climbing training anyone can use, and if you're on a quest to find some of the best hangboards in 2023, you've landed in the right place. Compact, durable, and skin-friendly—it delivers effective finger training without the need for a traditional hangboard. With tension blocks you wouldn't have that problem but it would also be more difficult to find a spot where you can mount them. I’ve read some posts about hangboarding being really bad for beginners and I was hoping that using a tension block would allow for a more controlled workout and not over exert my fingers like a hangboard would. Elevate your fitness routine with tension blocks. What are people's results with no -hang devices like the tension block. Individual Training Blocks The Metolius Wood Rock Ring allows you to lift weights with your fingers as opposed to hanging from a hangboard. Mar 20, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The All-in-one Climbing Training Solution. Aug 9, 2023 · Are no-hang systems the best tools to train finger strength? La Fabrique Verticale analyses the advantages and limits of these new tools. Discover compact, versatile options for building grip strength, whether you're at the gym or on an adventure. Supercharged collagen. I prefer a single edge hangboard over the "variety" the block advertises. It features a comprehensive progression of edge depths paired with Tension's signature edge radius profile that maximizes comfort while training. What You'll Need for Hangboard Training Hangboard: Buy a hangboard, also called a fingerboard, use the one at your local climbing gym or make your own. The solution ~ Using a portable edge like a tension block! If you have the rope hang out the face of the block then the edge is more/less positive depending on if you're exerting pressure on the edge of the edge, or deep inside the edge. I'm new to this subreddit so please excuse me if I break any guidelines with this post. you're renting, so you simply have no means to hang a hangboard in your place. So if you have done both types of training, what are your: weighted 1 arm hangs (please include edge size, whether you are just lifting off the A worldwide favorite since 2018, The Block is a premium no-hang training tool designed to help climbers build finger and grip strength—anywhere, anytime. MoonBoard vs Kilter Board vs hang board vs campus board - what's the difference!? If you’ve ever wondered to yourself what these training boards are, how to use them, and how they help you train - you’re in luck. But hell, it's just a training tool so who cares as long as it gets your fingers strong. The absolute best hangboard on the planet is a piece of wood nailed to a doorway. Whether you’re warming up at the crag, or training finger strength at the gym, a lifting edge (a. Find out which types of hangboards deliver the best results for climbers focused on grip strength and lasting endurance. Oct 25, 2023 · Our Thoughts Does the perfect quiver-killer hangboard exist? Tension’s Honestone comes close. The next thing you need is a training load and lots of it. They have been extremely useful and such a great find. a. Still, I am a bit curious to get everyone's feedback and experiences about the pros and cons of each of these hangboards. Aug 25, 2025 · Even as products like the Tension Block became more popular, these tools were mostly used as a supplement for warming up for outdoor climbing and occasionally mixed into training by people seeking novelty. Usually just hang a weight though bc when I use it, it’s usually at home when I don’t have access to a wall or hangboard and I started packing it on work trip for the hotel gym. I’m finding the max ‘lifts’ more convenient but was wondering how the training stimulus differed. I used to really struggle reeling in small incut edges to a closed crimp. lattice pinch block, tension block). Nov 9, 2022 · 2022 – Finally found a good pattern of hitting Tu/F as moderately hard volume days by summer with very light climbing on Sunday or light tension block. I'm relatively strong with traditional hangboard protocols but never felt like it translated well to actual climbing. For me it was perfect for training, because open hand comes easy for me. This is a nice and easily storable solutions. Metolius Rock Rings Training Tool: Best Portable Hangboard for Climbers on a Budget Who is it for? 3. Once you start using it you’ll realize that there is a lot more than meets the eye. Nov 27, 2023 · Can anyone shed any light on the training benefits of using a hanboard versus lifts (e. Tension Board (vs. . However, many other blocks are available on the market, such as The Block from Tension Climbing or the V-Mobs block that Yves Gravelle uses 7 8 9. In descending order of preference they are probably: a full hangboard e. Feb 7, 2022 · Different hangboards make sense for different climbers at different times. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. When you're a beginner then your tendons are still adapting to the stress you're putting them under and so you're more vulnerable to injury. Tension Honestone Hangboard - Tension - The Honestone is a purpose-built tool for preparing athletes for their hardest sends. Hangboards, portable hangboards, pinch blocks, and rock climbing training equipment. I think fixed is lightly better in terms of repeatability and ease of use. It would seem extremely cumbersome to load up much more. Unlike traditional symmetrically-set boards (called systems boards), Tension’s version does not just allow the execution of mirrored isolated movements but is designed to create entire mirrored boulder problems. However, I've noticed there's a lack of beginner-friendly hanging routines. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as nutritional secrets for tendon health and strength gains. It’s the most „engaging“ edge and really makes you try hard. One move on a route had a gross (for me) compression double pinch and it took about 3 weeks of training pinch and working on that route. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I like the tension block too. Apr 24, 2020 · It was one of the biggest lessons I learned. Dec 11, 2021 · Tension Board Training The Tension Board is an 8’ by 12’ symmetrically-set board with all wooden holds made by Tension Climbing. Moonboard vs. I had a Yubi board by digit climbing. What you’re talking about is just hangboarding with your feet on the ground. Sep 5, 2020 · Besides whether the edge radius issue, the knock-off is composed of multiple glued pieces vs a solid block of wood. Hangboard 2 is ok if you're going to use it to warm up at the crag or the boulders. Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. Kilter Board @KilterClimbingGrips vs the new Tension Board 2 @tensionclimbing ! Which is the better training tool for climbers? Here are some of the pros and The Murus Hangboard which uses the quick change holds we make in 4 separate stations spanning about 24 inches (600mm. Nov 16, 2020 · Tension’s Grindstone models do not suffer from this problem. During quarantine picked up a portable hangboard, The Block, from Tension Climbing. The Tension block though is sweet. Roy Quanstrom walks us through the official overview for the Tension Climbing Block. The general consensus is that beginners should avoid Hangboard training for at least a year to prevent injuries. I'm about a V4/V5 climber and so was wondering if it would be a good choice for me or if it's intended for higher grades, or if anyone had one themselves. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any relevant research you might know. Apr 24, 2023 · Block Pulls have been a common modality for rehab (with small weights) as well as warming up at the crag (isometrics) for quite a while, but they’ve only recently been gaining attention as a staple for strength training. I think curls have definitely improved my ability to close my hand down. Check the 3 red flags first. Tension Flash Board: Best Portable Hangboard for Traveling Climbers Who is it for? 4. ) The holds just clip on and off the aluminum cleats. Kelly Corrigan Training blocks, like Tension Blocks or Metolius Wood Rock Rings, are a great alternative to hangboards.

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